Nepal is a true mecca for any long distance walker with few other places in the world offering so many enticing sounding routes to suit all levels of experience. The big draws continue to be Everest Base Camp and the Annapurna Circuit, but we fancied something a little bit different. I had already hiked in the Annapurna range doing an independent trek to Annapurna Base Camp a few years ago and hiking the Poon Hill/Ghorepani loop with a group last year so was aware of the Mardi Himal trail. I liked the fact it fitted in with our time scale and also that it was reputed to be a little quieter than many other trails, so when a Nepali friend added his weight to the suggestion we made the decision to give it a shot.
After a couple of days exploring the sights of Kathmandu and Bandipur we squeezed into a local minibus that took us to Pokhara where we were meeting Krishna and Ek, our guide and porter for the trail. Whilst routefinding is not really a problem we formed a close team with the guys during the trail and definitely were able to relax and enjoy the surroundings whilst being looked out for and carrying much smaller packs. We started at the foot of a set of very steep stairs (the first of many) in Pedi where I had also started my ABC trek. We climbed through rice paddies and past terraced agricultural land and ramshackle homesteads whilst Black Kites and Vultures wheeled in the blue sky above us. After lunch at Dhampus we continued through the start of the Rhododendron forest with some spectacular views before reaching Lali Gurans Guest House where we whiled away the afternoon by the log burning stove (the last one we were to see!) before getting stuck into the dal bhat, the Nepali staple of rice, lentils and various garnishes which is continually topped up until you wave a hand in surrender.
Day two saw us climbing nearly another one thousand metres as we headed up to Low Camp through more lush Rhododendron forest with the first blooms starting to come out high in the canopy above us. We got some stunning views in the morning of Annapurna South and Macchapuchare but after lunch the clouds dropped low, the rain started to fall and just as we arrived into camp it turned to snow! It was quite magical for a while as the snow fell hard outside but a new regulation that forbid cutting firewood for heating inside the conservation area meant the temperature plummeted rapidly and we spent most of the afternoon wrapped in our sleeping bags listening to Stephen King audiobooks!
Day three was a short day but started with a glorious sunrise revealing more views of Macchapuchare, one of the most scenic mountains I have ever come across. We ascended to High Camp working hard with the path made slippery by mud and snow. We were passed by the sure footed mules who bring all the supplies to these remote high tea houses as we all climbed to the very limit of the forests through yet more cloud and clag. Day four started at 4.30 as we joined the procession of head torches climbing above the 4000m mark and towards the as yet unseen peaks. As the visibility increased and we ascended the final sets of stairs to the High View Point the most magnificent mountain panorama came into view with Annapurna South, Ganga Purna, Macchapuchare and Mardi Himal all arrayed before us bathed in sunlight. Below us a sea of cloud lay cloaking the valley, it was truly magical and at 4300m the highest Thalia had ever been by a thousand metres. There was even a teahouse serving very welcome ginger tea, truly a brew with a view! We descended all the way back to Low Camp where we took medicinal doses of Kukri Rum to try and stave off exhaustion from the early start and the seemingly unending steps that we had climbed in both directions.
The final day of our Mardi Himal trek saw us drop down, down and yet further down to the roadhead at Sidding. The forest was draped with moss and low hanging branches and the stairs were relentless but we eventually reached Sidding where we watched our lunch host pick the veg from his garden before cooking it up for us. The drive was one of the most challenging I’ve been on and I have been on some pretty good ones but the road from Sidding was insane! We bid a sad farewell to the guys before returning to Pokhara and tucking into one Nepal’s best pizzas at Caffe Concerto, one of my regular Pokhara haunts.
The Mardi Himal trail is a fantastic experience. Whilst it is touted as a beginner’s trail there is a significant physical effort and over 3000 metres of ascent. The views are stunning and the Rhodendendron forest is eerie and atmospheric. It was moderately busy when we went with a lot of the trekkers being Nepali. The teahouses are basic and if they continue to be unheated it will be pretty rough during the colder months. The High View Point is up there with some of the best panoramas I have come across and, as always, the vast majority of locals you meet will be polite, kind, friendly and supportive, genuinely some of the best people you will meet. Nepal is a country that I carry in my heart with me and the Mardi Himal trail is a very special part of it.
If you’d be interested in trekking the trail or any other trails in Nepal with us please don’t hesitate to get in touch!
